![]() ![]() Who knows, maybe the whole "float" thing is just a typo.MM Front coilovers, 375# 2.5x10 front springs, Bilstein struts, MM CasterCamber plates, MM STB, MM rack bushings, milled rack, MM front arms offset w/delrin bushings, bump steer kit, V6 front sway bar with rod end links, Cobra IRS, Motion Dynamics IRS LCA delrin bushings, MM rear coilovers, 600# 2.25x8 rear springs, Bilstein 00R IRS shocks, KB rear steer kit, MM IRS subframe bushings, FR500 diff brace, Cobra PBR calipers up front, 11" Cobra rotors in back, SS lines, MM subs, FRPP 3.55 gears, aluminum driveshaft, SPEC clutch, aluminum flywheel, Steeda TriAx, VRS O/R X-pipe with Magnaflow Magnapacks and dumps, Steeda UD crank pulley, ram air, intake spacer port matched to ported intake elbow, 2000 Cobra R Fuel Cell with V6 bumper cover, K&N filter, Diablo Sport chip, AC delete, rear seat delete, stereo delete, spoiler delete, AZS Cobra fascia with brake and intake air ducts, Sparco Pro2000 seats, R58 wheels for street tires, CCW wheels for race tires. The photos in post #6 certainly appear to be from an official Ford manual, but it would be nice to confirm the year and model. I'd feel better if we could make sure that we're looking at the correct info here. Your 2-prong sensor sounds much more like like the one on my '95, which looks identical to LMR's "1990-95" compatible sensor, neither of which use a float. But the troubleshooting procedures are written up a little differently, and the chart in post #6 mentions a "float" that doesn't sound consistent with the 2-prong sensor you have. The fuse number is different on my '95, as are the lamp pin number and ground point numbers- minor differences which I would expect to change between generations. That's where I got the Service Manual and EVTM for my '95, which shows an almost identical diagram for that circuit. The Ford manuals are also available in digital form through Bishko. I would try it right out of the box, don't try shorting the sense points with a wire. 1990s, many new EFI vehicles still utilized factory EFI conversions of formerly carbureted engines (such as the 5.0L Mustang, and the TPI 5.0 or 5.7 Camaro. So if the amplifier in the cap is shot, shorting the two contacts at the end may not do anything. The red wire probably just powers the amplifier. Antifreeze isn't conductive enough to put enough current to light a bulb, so they probably put a little amplifier in the cap. I'm assuming that there's a little amplifier built into the cap, and it senses a resistance across the two electrodes at the bottom of the tube and shorts blue to black (ground) when it senses a little leakage current. Sounds like your sensor is shorted blue to black, and your instrument panel and wiring are good. That explains why it goes out when you unplug the sensor. So grounding the blue wire should turn on the light. The bottom of the indicator bulb runs forward to the sensor as a blue wire. The red/yel is +12, the black is ground, and the bulb in the dash has one side connected to 12V in the instrument panel. I'm working with a '91 5L but the circuit looks the same as the one wbrockstar posted above. I believe there is a little electronic module potted into the bottom of the reservoir cap, (I can see a small well filled with potting compound) and that's why it needs the 3 wires. I've been playing around with that circuit myself, because I'm installing a new instrument panel. Is there a way to test the coolant level sensor? Could a bad temp gauge affect the low coolant system somehow? ![]() I put in a new coolant level sensor and still get a light on the dash. I jumped the two metal tabs at the bottom of the sensor (read on a forum that some people do this) and light is still on. red/yellow and green both have 12v, and the black tests good for ground. The light is on when plugged in, but goes out when unplugged which I read is normal. On the coolant temp gauge, I replaced the sensor with a new one before and gauge still doesn't work. It has a Low Coolant Level light on (not sure if it was on prior to heater core change), and the coolant temp gauge doesn't work. He replaced the heater core before I picked it up. Picked up a 92 GT Convertible from a reliable buddy of mine. great forum here! I appreciate all the great knowledge.
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